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Frisket
It is possible to create perfectly adequate graduations using the airbrush freehand by employing its natural tendency to ‘overspray’ to create effect. When depicting three-dimensional objects, however, one needs to define planes and surfaces. The airbrush is not well suited to producing extremely fine precise outlines. So how exactly are those startlingly realistic solid images created?
The technique that makes the creation of 3-D images possible is masking. Since the airbrush sprays tiny dots – similar to those that compose a photographic or television image – some sort of mask or stencil must be used to produce an absolutely sharp edge (and also to eliminate overspray). The solidity of the image achieved by this method is, in fact, due to its very absence of outline. As every artist knows, objects seen by the eye do not possess a hard outline, such as a child would use in a drawing; they are distinguished from their surroundings by the eyes stereoscopic vision and by their individual dimensions, colours, hues and textures.
There are several ways of using masks and stencils to achieve hard edges to your images or to provide ready-made shapes or patterns which may be used on fabrics, ceramics and so on. These techniques vary from the very simple – overlaying a piece of card to produce a straight line, for example – to more sophisticated multiple overlays which require the use of specialist adhesive film called FRISKET. ‘Masking’ or Frisketing’ is a key technique for any airbrush artist, and essential for the convenient production of high quality 3-D images.
FRISKET Film is a thin sheet of low tack self-adhesive vinyl used to cover a drawing ready for airbrushing. Using a very sharp blade, usually a scalpel, the artist cuts through the FRISKET Film to expose the areas to be airbrushed. It is important that the pressure of cut is sufficient to go through the film but light enough so that the surface below is not damaged.
SIMair’s Original FRISKET Film is available in either GLOSS or MATT finish. The gloss finish allows perfect clarity when used in position directly onto artwork. It can also be used as a temporary overlay to enhance work presentation or to protect work in progress. Matt finish film will easily accept pencil drawing so masks can be pre-prepared away from your artwork. Drawing alterations can also be made with film in place over the artwork. The translucent release paper on SIMair’s FRISKET Film allows light to come through it enabling projected images to be traced directly onto the matt surface.
There is no right or wrong way to use FRISKET Film – developing your own technique is always the best way.
For design and illustration a drawing may be rendered directly onto the surface board to be painted or by the more popular method of tracing it onto board. Tracing will give you a much lighter image that covers more easily with airbrush spray. Another method of transferring your drawing to the illustration board is as follows: First, produce a soft lead sketch to size onto a pad, cover it with masking film and burnish out gently by hand. This will lift the drawing onto the adhesive of the masking film, which can then be transferred directly onto your illustration board. This method is particularly useful when using transparent colour, as no pencil marks are left on the board surface.
When your drawing is on the board in your chosen manner, you can either paint the background areas or detail area first. It, obviously, makes sense to paint areas of the same colour before changing colour. Gently cut out the areas for spraying, saving the cut out FRISKET Film on the release paper for re-use. When a complex piece of film is removed, it is often easier to re-mask using a new piece of film cut into place.
Another method for re-applying masks when using multiple colours on complex work is to employ the ‘flap-system’. This involves creating a hinge on one edge of the mask by fixing it in place with drafting tape onto your pre-masked surface. You should then be able to lift the shape up and away from the surface by its hinge, complete the airbrushing and then replace the mask. To avoid getting paint on the adhesive side of the FRISKET Film, cover it with a small piece of release paper.
If you have created a secure hinge, you will be able to use it to replace the mask precisely over the area you have painted when it is dry. By using multiple flaps, you can progress from one area to the next, using as many colours as you wish without running the risk of runs and colour seepage.
When your illustration/design is complete, highlights can be added.
TIPS AND RECOMMENDATIONS:
- Always test a small area of your painting surface before applying any FRISKET Film. Make sure it will peel off without leaving any residue or causing surface damage. This is especially important when the surface is textured.
- Spray a small area of colour onto the surface you intend to paint. Allow the colour to dry and test with masking film to make sure the colour does not adhere to it.
- Use minimal pressure when applying FRISKET Film and do not leave it on your work for long periods or it may become very difficult or impossible to remove without causing damage.
- Use a very sharp blade when cutting FRISKET Film so that minimal pressure is applied. Change blade as soon as any more than minimal pressure is required to cut the film.
- When you have removed the film from the release paper, save the release paper so that cut pieces can be held safely for re-use.
- With your FRISKET Film in place over your drawing, gently rub the air bubbles out, working from the centre outwards. This prevents spray seepage.
- You will find that FRISKET Film is most easily cut when the scalpel is held at an angle of around 45° to the surface and the cut is made toward you. When changing the direction of the cut, it is often easier to turn the board and not the scalpel.
- If you are airbrushing onto shiny surfaces, such as metals or glass, a thin film of soapy water can be applied to the surface – this will allow the FRISKET Film to be slid easily into position. Squeegee away the soap through the film; it will then stick into position.